Catherine says:
We have a rather extensive collection of photographs that I have still to upload to flickr. I anticipate this will be finalised over the next fortnight, so for those of you who have expressed disappointment that there will be no more postings from La France, please rest assured that there will be new photos uploaded each day for your viewing pleasure. Just click on this link.
P.S. A new travel blog, detailing my upcoming travels to Landet av Vikinger, geit ost og fiskeboller is up at Go The Norway.
Tuesday, 24 June 2014
Monday, 23 June 2014
A journey over but a new one beginning
Catherine says:
The Little Mother and I have now returned to Australia. Our wonderful month in France is but a memory, but one that we hold dear and close to our hearts. It was the experience of a life time and I am so blessed that I had the opportunity to share this with my darling mother – my best friend, my confidante, my Clayton’s big sister (that is, the big sister you have when you really don’t have a big sister). We were inspired, awestruck, enthralled, mesmerised, captivated and spellbound by all that we saw. And we laughed endlessly!
I know that this journey – although over – is really just the beginning of a bigger one. The past month has changed my philosophy on life, shown me opportunities I had never considered and reaffirmed that life is not about finding oneself, but about creating oneself. But the most important thing is that I shared all of this with my mother and created a story with her: a tale interwoven with laughter, love, good food (and the occasional good wine!), amazing sights and new friends.
So I will not say au revoir to La France, because my love affair with her has just begun and I know it will not be long before I return to the land that has captured my heart and soul and brought me so much joy and happiness.
The Little Mother and I have now returned to Australia. Our wonderful month in France is but a memory, but one that we hold dear and close to our hearts. It was the experience of a life time and I am so blessed that I had the opportunity to share this with my darling mother – my best friend, my confidante, my Clayton’s big sister (that is, the big sister you have when you really don’t have a big sister). We were inspired, awestruck, enthralled, mesmerised, captivated and spellbound by all that we saw. And we laughed endlessly!
I know that this journey – although over – is really just the beginning of a bigger one. The past month has changed my philosophy on life, shown me opportunities I had never considered and reaffirmed that life is not about finding oneself, but about creating oneself. But the most important thing is that I shared all of this with my mother and created a story with her: a tale interwoven with laughter, love, good food (and the occasional good wine!), amazing sights and new friends.
So I will not say au revoir to La France, because my love affair with her has just begun and I know it will not be long before I return to the land that has captured my heart and soul and brought me so much joy and happiness.
Tuesday, 17 June 2014
Day 27: Monet's garden
Margot says:
Today we took a tour to Giverny in the company of four others, including Helene from Sydney, a French couple and a young Japanese couple.
Our driver Paul, a gifted linguist, spoke Spanish, English, French and Italian. He hails from Peru and lived for some years in Italy and London but for the past 15 years he has lived in France.
We had a wonderful day exploring the gardens that were beyond my wildest dreams! From lilies to roses to poppies to bluebells to foxgloves, not to forget the wonderful waterlilies. Catherine and I were snap happy (not to be confused with "snappy chappy"!). When we have time we will upload some of the gorgeous photographs we took.
We spent the last couple of hours today packing our suitcases in preparation for our departure tomorrow. Although we don't fly out until 9:50pm we need to check out of the hotel by 12pm. It will be a quiet afternoon as I will be strapped into my flight paraphernalia for legs and arms (to combat DVT as per my doctor's instructions).
I can't wait to get home and catch up with family and friends. It has been a wonderful experience and Catherine has been a wonderful travelling companion and spoiled me rotten.
The blog will be updated considerably when we arrive back in Melbourne. We have many more tales to tell and photographs to share. Eventually, when the blog is finalised Catherine will arrange for a hard copy to be printed and bound for me as a reminder of our French travels.
Bon soir mes amies!
Today we took a tour to Giverny in the company of four others, including Helene from Sydney, a French couple and a young Japanese couple.
Our driver Paul, a gifted linguist, spoke Spanish, English, French and Italian. He hails from Peru and lived for some years in Italy and London but for the past 15 years he has lived in France.
We had a wonderful day exploring the gardens that were beyond my wildest dreams! From lilies to roses to poppies to bluebells to foxgloves, not to forget the wonderful waterlilies. Catherine and I were snap happy (not to be confused with "snappy chappy"!). When we have time we will upload some of the gorgeous photographs we took.
We spent the last couple of hours today packing our suitcases in preparation for our departure tomorrow. Although we don't fly out until 9:50pm we need to check out of the hotel by 12pm. It will be a quiet afternoon as I will be strapped into my flight paraphernalia for legs and arms (to combat DVT as per my doctor's instructions).
I can't wait to get home and catch up with family and friends. It has been a wonderful experience and Catherine has been a wonderful travelling companion and spoiled me rotten.
The blog will be updated considerably when we arrive back in Melbourne. We have many more tales to tell and photographs to share. Eventually, when the blog is finalised Catherine will arrange for a hard copy to be printed and bound for me as a reminder of our French travels.
Bon soir mes amies!
Moulin de la Ville
Catherine says:
We are a bit behind in our blog posting and although we're now up to Day 27 (our 3rd day in Paris), I wanted to share with you some of our photos of our lovely stay at Moulin de la Ville in Beaumont-du-Périgord.
...our bedroom...
We are a bit behind in our blog posting and although we're now up to Day 27 (our 3rd day in Paris), I wanted to share with you some of our photos of our lovely stay at Moulin de la Ville in Beaumont-du-Périgord.
...our bedroom...
Monday, 16 June 2014
Day 26: The Louvre
Catherine says:
Below is a selection of photographs I took at the Louvre. First up is the Little Mother, albeit a little windblown:
...next we have another humorous example of Chinglish which I found on the backpack of the tourist queuing in front of me as we went through security checks (apologies for the blur, he kept moving!)...
"following me enjoy the time in spring. with you appreciate to read it. little sheep, keep company with you bathing in the beautiful scenery."
...now see that tiny little painting on the wall to the left, that's the Mona Lisa and about as close as I could get to it, due to the crazy crowds...
...and here is a painting of a couple of elegant dogs, taken especially for Animal Nephews Baxter and Yankee...
...and of course, the Louvre would have to be ruined by the installation of a Starbucks!
...but the pièce de résistance was the accidental discovery of a Delfonics shop... where I went nuts!
Below is a selection of photographs I took at the Louvre. First up is the Little Mother, albeit a little windblown:
...next we have another humorous example of Chinglish which I found on the backpack of the tourist queuing in front of me as we went through security checks (apologies for the blur, he kept moving!)...
"following me enjoy the time in spring. with you appreciate to read it. little sheep, keep company with you bathing in the beautiful scenery."
...now see that tiny little painting on the wall to the left, that's the Mona Lisa and about as close as I could get to it, due to the crazy crowds...
...and here is a painting of a couple of elegant dogs, taken especially for Animal Nephews Baxter and Yankee...
...and of course, the Louvre would have to be ruined by the installation of a Starbucks!
...but the pièce de résistance was the accidental discovery of a Delfonics shop... where I went nuts!
Sunday, 15 June 2014
Day 25: Paris at last
Margot says:
Whilst I am enjoying the thought of being in Paris at last, my travelling companion is finding it somewhat difficult to cope with city life. Despite this I have every intention of enjoying myself!
We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport this morning, dropped off our hire car and picked up a taxi. Similarly to my last visit to Paris when everything was being cleaned, upgraded and scaffolded, the taxi driver had great difficulty in getting us to the hotel as the surrounding roads were in lock down due to some new development (roadworks!). We went around in circles and the poor chap had to park about a block away and help us drag our luggage to the hotel.
Our taxi driver was a very pleasant multi-lingual Iranian man (this impressed Catherine!) who gave us a guided tour when we got to the city centre, pointing out all the sights of interest. However, the pièce de résistance came when he advised us that he had a friend from Melbourne called Margot. He was so excited! What a coincidence!
We lunched at a nearby restaurant and watched the world go by. We are now back in our hotel room planning the next three days. Catherine will follow wherever I lead, so she says. Our first thing will be to organise a hop-on-hop-off bus tour to get our bearings.
Whilst I am enjoying the thought of being in Paris at last, my travelling companion is finding it somewhat difficult to cope with city life. Despite this I have every intention of enjoying myself!
We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport this morning, dropped off our hire car and picked up a taxi. Similarly to my last visit to Paris when everything was being cleaned, upgraded and scaffolded, the taxi driver had great difficulty in getting us to the hotel as the surrounding roads were in lock down due to some new development (roadworks!). We went around in circles and the poor chap had to park about a block away and help us drag our luggage to the hotel.
Our taxi driver was a very pleasant multi-lingual Iranian man (this impressed Catherine!) who gave us a guided tour when we got to the city centre, pointing out all the sights of interest. However, the pièce de résistance came when he advised us that he had a friend from Melbourne called Margot. He was so excited! What a coincidence!
We lunched at a nearby restaurant and watched the world go by. We are now back in our hotel room planning the next three days. Catherine will follow wherever I lead, so she says. Our first thing will be to organise a hop-on-hop-off bus tour to get our bearings.
Saturday, 14 June 2014
Day 24: Hello Orléans... just for a little while
Catherine says:
After a five hour drive from Beaumont-du-Périgord we have arrived in Orléans and are staying overnight at the Mercure before heading off to Paris tomorrow.
I must be honest and say that I feel somewhat sad. Being back in a big city like Orléans and holing up in the sterile environs of a hotel makes me realise that our trip of a lifetime is over - or rather, 3 days away from being over. I miss the green fields and forests of Beaumont and its surrounds; its beautiful stone buildings; the sounds of the wild boars, foxes and nightingales at night; the hot days; the Bastide; the wonderful community feeling; the laid back lifestyle. Sue & Steve and Sue & Neil and Betrand & Elizabeth certainly made us feel so welcome and part of the Beaumont family. Here in the big smoke we are nothing more than an anonymous number: Tourists # 5,763,767 and # 5,763,768.
However, we will return home with some really wonderful memories, new friendships and many more stories to tell. And perhaps my dreams of returning again next year may become a reality. During our week with Sue & Steve I learned many valuable life lessons that have had quite a big impact on me.
Tomorrow we take a shorter 2 hour-ish (depending on traffic) drive to Charles de Gaulle airport to drop off our hire car and then somehow manage to drag ourselves and our excess luggage into Citadines Les Halles where we will stay until we check out on Wednesday before flying home later that night.
I am dreading the drive into Paris tomorrow. The Little Mother doesn't know this, but I have no idea how to return the car to the hire car folk. That is, where on earth is the hire car office at Charles de Gaulle airport? It is very big and whilst I may have managed to miraculously exit the airport last time (surely that was divine intervention!), entering it this time could prove to be very interesting! I'm hoping Tomasina (a.k.a. TomTom) will be able to help us out in that regard.
The other thing I'm dreading is Paris itself. I am by no means a city girl - and prefer the wide open spaces, parks, gardens, quiet winding roads and little villages. However, we have three things we wish to achieve; visits to:
After a five hour drive from Beaumont-du-Périgord we have arrived in Orléans and are staying overnight at the Mercure before heading off to Paris tomorrow.
I must be honest and say that I feel somewhat sad. Being back in a big city like Orléans and holing up in the sterile environs of a hotel makes me realise that our trip of a lifetime is over - or rather, 3 days away from being over. I miss the green fields and forests of Beaumont and its surrounds; its beautiful stone buildings; the sounds of the wild boars, foxes and nightingales at night; the hot days; the Bastide; the wonderful community feeling; the laid back lifestyle. Sue & Steve and Sue & Neil and Betrand & Elizabeth certainly made us feel so welcome and part of the Beaumont family. Here in the big smoke we are nothing more than an anonymous number: Tourists # 5,763,767 and # 5,763,768.
However, we will return home with some really wonderful memories, new friendships and many more stories to tell. And perhaps my dreams of returning again next year may become a reality. During our week with Sue & Steve I learned many valuable life lessons that have had quite a big impact on me.
Tomorrow we take a shorter 2 hour-ish (depending on traffic) drive to Charles de Gaulle airport to drop off our hire car and then somehow manage to drag ourselves and our excess luggage into Citadines Les Halles where we will stay until we check out on Wednesday before flying home later that night.
I am dreading the drive into Paris tomorrow. The Little Mother doesn't know this, but I have no idea how to return the car to the hire car folk. That is, where on earth is the hire car office at Charles de Gaulle airport? It is very big and whilst I may have managed to miraculously exit the airport last time (surely that was divine intervention!), entering it this time could prove to be very interesting! I'm hoping Tomasina (a.k.a. TomTom) will be able to help us out in that regard.
The other thing I'm dreading is Paris itself. I am by no means a city girl - and prefer the wide open spaces, parks, gardens, quiet winding roads and little villages. However, we have three things we wish to achieve; visits to:
- the Louvre
- L'Orangerie
- the Musée d'Orsay
Friday, 13 June 2014
Day 23: Last night in Beaumont-du-Périgord
Margot says:
Au revoir Beaumont!
Today is our last day in Beaumont and tomorrow we leave for Orléans.
We spent the first part of today in Monpazier, another Bastide town. Such history abounds! Then we had the pleasure of visiting Betrand and Elizabeth who live in the oldest house in the village. They gave us a tour of their magnificent abode filled with wondrous treasures. They were a most delightful and hospitable couple. We were accompanied by Sue 2.0 and her little dog. Sue, Bertrand and Elizabeth have been close friends for many years. We were very privileged and honoured to be permitted to see Bertrand's and Elizabeth's home.
We ended the day with yet another magnificent meal prepared by Steve. We should also mention the beautiful table setting arranged by Sue 1.0 who has an exquisite eye for detail. We will upload photographs shortly.
We will miss our after dinner drinks in the garden and interesting conversations. Although we have only been here for one week it will be hard to leave our new found friends tomorrow. However, we will keep in touch and already Catherine is planning a return visit next year.
It is late now and we have an early start so I shall finish this post now.
Bon nuit!
Au revoir Beaumont!
Today is our last day in Beaumont and tomorrow we leave for Orléans.
We spent the first part of today in Monpazier, another Bastide town. Such history abounds! Then we had the pleasure of visiting Betrand and Elizabeth who live in the oldest house in the village. They gave us a tour of their magnificent abode filled with wondrous treasures. They were a most delightful and hospitable couple. We were accompanied by Sue 2.0 and her little dog. Sue, Bertrand and Elizabeth have been close friends for many years. We were very privileged and honoured to be permitted to see Bertrand's and Elizabeth's home.
We ended the day with yet another magnificent meal prepared by Steve. We should also mention the beautiful table setting arranged by Sue 1.0 who has an exquisite eye for detail. We will upload photographs shortly.
We will miss our after dinner drinks in the garden and interesting conversations. Although we have only been here for one week it will be hard to leave our new found friends tomorrow. However, we will keep in touch and already Catherine is planning a return visit next year.
It is late now and we have an early start so I shall finish this post now.
Bon nuit!
Day 23: Dirty little stop outs
Catherine says:
Yes, it's after midnight and I am blogging! The Little Mother and I have been dirty little stop outs - conversing late into the night with Sue 1.0 and Sue 2.0 while the men in their lives watched the Brazil v Honduras match on the telly.
Ah, this is the life! But must say good night now! The Little Mother will dictate the next blog post tomorrow.
Yes, it's after midnight and I am blogging! The Little Mother and I have been dirty little stop outs - conversing late into the night with Sue 1.0 and Sue 2.0 while the men in their lives watched the Brazil v Honduras match on the telly.
Ah, this is the life! But must say good night now! The Little Mother will dictate the next blog post tomorrow.
Thursday, 12 June 2014
Day 22: Feeling hot, hot, hot
Catherine says:
Today is 31 degrees celsius. The Mater and I walked up the hill to centre ville from Moulin de la Ville to have lunch. By the time we arrived we were both suffering from different levels of exhaustion. Too hot to be out in the sun today. But clearly the phrase only old dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun can be applied to us - even if we aren't English.
We ate lunch at a local restaurant - a simple dish of omelette and salad followed by a little bowl of ice cream. Rather delicious, but unfortunately Michelin-starred chef Steve (owner and resident chef of Moulin de la Ville) has ruined all future culinary experiences for us as nothing quite compares to his cooking. He cooks for us every night and it is always a wonderful experience. Afterwards we sit in the garden with Steve and Sue and converse well into the night. We have had many an interesting conversation and both The Mater and I will miss our evenings with them when we leave on Saturday (for Orléans and then on to Paris).
Yesterday was a full day of painting with Jacqui Clarke (check out her website here) - an amazingly talented artist and teacher. There were three students - The Mater, me and a wonderful lady from Scotland via Canada called Lindsey. Both The Mater and Lindsey created some spectacular works of art however I produced nothing of a calibre higher than that of a kindergarten kid. Clearly I need some intensive lessons! It was a lot of fun, so I guess that's the most important thing.
I also had a really interesting encounter with Bertrand who I had heard about from the two Sues (Sue 1.0 as in Moulin de la Ville Sue and Sue 2.0 as in Centre Ville Sue). Bertrand and his wife live in the oldest house in the village which dates back to the time of King Edward the First and the house has been in the hands of Bertrand's family ever since! That is going back to the 1200s! This mind blowing fact almost caused me to pop a gasket. Anyhow, Bertrand has spent considerable time in Chile and so I was able to converse with him in Spanish which was a real treat. He showed me his beautiful garden, let me eat cherries from his tree and then gave me a tour of the outbuildings around his house. What was of particular interest to me were the three separate rooms where 3 of King Edward's soldiers slept and the space below where they looked out for invaders and where they could attack any advancing enemy soldiers. There was also a mighty big cellar, horse stables and myriad rooms that all fascinated me. There were probably a few ghosts in there too - I have heard many a tale from local residents about the ghost(s) that inhabit their and other houses. I am sure any exorcists out there could have a roaring trade here in Beaumont-du-Périgord!
I will finish this post here as it is after 4pm, the sun is still shining (it doesn't set until close to 10pm) and I want to sit in the beautiful garden here and read a book (as I am missing out on episodes of Game of Thrones I have to keep up with the latest by actually reading it in book form - which is quite interesting in itself as the book differs greatly - and is significantly better - than the TV series!)
Today is 31 degrees celsius. The Mater and I walked up the hill to centre ville from Moulin de la Ville to have lunch. By the time we arrived we were both suffering from different levels of exhaustion. Too hot to be out in the sun today. But clearly the phrase only old dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun can be applied to us - even if we aren't English.
We ate lunch at a local restaurant - a simple dish of omelette and salad followed by a little bowl of ice cream. Rather delicious, but unfortunately Michelin-starred chef Steve (owner and resident chef of Moulin de la Ville) has ruined all future culinary experiences for us as nothing quite compares to his cooking. He cooks for us every night and it is always a wonderful experience. Afterwards we sit in the garden with Steve and Sue and converse well into the night. We have had many an interesting conversation and both The Mater and I will miss our evenings with them when we leave on Saturday (for Orléans and then on to Paris).
Yesterday was a full day of painting with Jacqui Clarke (check out her website here) - an amazingly talented artist and teacher. There were three students - The Mater, me and a wonderful lady from Scotland via Canada called Lindsey. Both The Mater and Lindsey created some spectacular works of art however I produced nothing of a calibre higher than that of a kindergarten kid. Clearly I need some intensive lessons! It was a lot of fun, so I guess that's the most important thing.
I also had a really interesting encounter with Bertrand who I had heard about from the two Sues (Sue 1.0 as in Moulin de la Ville Sue and Sue 2.0 as in Centre Ville Sue). Bertrand and his wife live in the oldest house in the village which dates back to the time of King Edward the First and the house has been in the hands of Bertrand's family ever since! That is going back to the 1200s! This mind blowing fact almost caused me to pop a gasket. Anyhow, Bertrand has spent considerable time in Chile and so I was able to converse with him in Spanish which was a real treat. He showed me his beautiful garden, let me eat cherries from his tree and then gave me a tour of the outbuildings around his house. What was of particular interest to me were the three separate rooms where 3 of King Edward's soldiers slept and the space below where they looked out for invaders and where they could attack any advancing enemy soldiers. There was also a mighty big cellar, horse stables and myriad rooms that all fascinated me. There were probably a few ghosts in there too - I have heard many a tale from local residents about the ghost(s) that inhabit their and other houses. I am sure any exorcists out there could have a roaring trade here in Beaumont-du-Périgord!
I will finish this post here as it is after 4pm, the sun is still shining (it doesn't set until close to 10pm) and I want to sit in the beautiful garden here and read a book (as I am missing out on episodes of Game of Thrones I have to keep up with the latest by actually reading it in book form - which is quite interesting in itself as the book differs greatly - and is significantly better - than the TV series!)
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Tuesday, 10 June 2014
Day 20: Château de Beynac
Catherine says
:
Temperature: high 20s Sky: overcast Humidity: frizzy hair day
Today we spent most of the day at Château de Beynac. Driving at Nana-speed (The Little Mother is still not quite comfortable with me driving at the allowable 90km per hour around the tight winding roads we frequently come across) it took us about one and a half hours. If I didn't have a Nana in the car I could have done it in 45 minutes.
The sight of the Château was really quite spectacular. It sits high on a lime cliff face overlooking the Dordogne river and the countryside below.
To digress somewhat, I must admit that there has not been one day when I haven't been overwhelmed by the beauty, the history or the culture of this magnificent country. I have well and truly become a Francophile. All that is missing is a good grasp of their wonderful language. I propose to embrace French lessons with gusto upon my return home. I cannot wait to return here and when I do I want to come equipped with fully functioning French! (The Mater really does exaggerate her perceived opinion of my French language skills!)
So back to the Château - I won't give you a history lesson, you can read that on Wikipedia - it's enormous and on par with Carcassone in its mind blowing greatness. See - it's so spectacular that I'm running out of adjectives.
Rather than upload a tonne of photographs onto this blog post I'm going to upload only one below and then I'm going to let you all into a handy little trick - if you let your mouse (cursor) hover over the photograph below you will see arrows superimposed on the left and right hand margins of the picture. Click on these arrows to scroll back and forth between the photos in the France 2014 album on flickr.
I will however - in a separate post - upload all of the photographs taken by The Little Mother because she is quite proud of her handy work (especially the shots she takes of our meals!) as am I and she deserves due recognition of how well she is manipulating her new Nikon Phd ("push here dummy") camera.
..and AZ, no we didn't find Monsieur Shreque at this castle either!
Temperature: high 20s Sky: overcast Humidity: frizzy hair day
Today we spent most of the day at Château de Beynac. Driving at Nana-speed (The Little Mother is still not quite comfortable with me driving at the allowable 90km per hour around the tight winding roads we frequently come across) it took us about one and a half hours. If I didn't have a Nana in the car I could have done it in 45 minutes.
The sight of the Château was really quite spectacular. It sits high on a lime cliff face overlooking the Dordogne river and the countryside below.
To digress somewhat, I must admit that there has not been one day when I haven't been overwhelmed by the beauty, the history or the culture of this magnificent country. I have well and truly become a Francophile. All that is missing is a good grasp of their wonderful language. I propose to embrace French lessons with gusto upon my return home. I cannot wait to return here and when I do I want to come equipped with fully functioning French! (The Mater really does exaggerate her perceived opinion of my French language skills!)
So back to the Château - I won't give you a history lesson, you can read that on Wikipedia - it's enormous and on par with Carcassone in its mind blowing greatness. See - it's so spectacular that I'm running out of adjectives.
Rather than upload a tonne of photographs onto this blog post I'm going to upload only one below and then I'm going to let you all into a handy little trick - if you let your mouse (cursor) hover over the photograph below you will see arrows superimposed on the left and right hand margins of the picture. Click on these arrows to scroll back and forth between the photos in the France 2014 album on flickr.
I will however - in a separate post - upload all of the photographs taken by The Little Mother because she is quite proud of her handy work (especially the shots she takes of our meals!) as am I and she deserves due recognition of how well she is manipulating her new Nikon Phd ("push here dummy") camera.
..and AZ, no we didn't find Monsieur Shreque at this castle either!
Monday, 9 June 2014
Day 19: The title of Catherine's new memoir
Catherine says:
Dawn French's memoir may be titled "Dear Fatty" but mine will certainly be "Dear Getting Fatter". I am turning into the human equivalent of foie gras.
Dawn French's memoir may be titled "Dear Fatty" but mine will certainly be "Dear Getting Fatter". I am turning into the human equivalent of foie gras.
Day 19: Relaxing times in Beaumont-du-Périgord
Margot says:
Beaumont-du-Périgord is a wonderful place to relax. Yesterday and today the temperature has been around 30-33 degrees celsius.
Our accommodation at Moulin de la Ville is set in 5 acres of beautiful woodlands and gardens. Glorious heady weather - days of wine and roses. Perfect weather for not doing too much. Just meandering around from tiny village to tiny village or just lazing in the afternoon sun on the expansive lush green lawn under the tall trees. The stream rippling and the wind gently moving the silver poplar leaves.
There are ducks that wander up in early evening (rescued by the owners of Moulin de la Ville when their mother went missing) and despite much encouragement to return to the wild they keep returning to the coop every night.
We are told there are wild boars nearby, yet to be seen and likewise the deer in the next field.
This is a romantic country, particularly in this region - the light is gentle and there is a painting around every corner. The romance comes through in this lovely language. How much better does it sound to attend a vide grenier instead of a car boot sale! We attended one this morning in the normally very quiet village of Saint Capraise de la Lalinde. The village is situated on the canal de 2 mers which is the continuation of the canal du midi.
We are apt to take lots of back roads and in doing so today we came upon the magical sight of Château de Bannes, high on a hill with goats gamboling on the lower fields. Coincidentally, this is where the son of Sue (Moulin de la Ville) was married with the fairytale wedding continuing with the reception at Moulin de la Ville.
Beaumont-du-Périgord is a wonderful place to relax. Yesterday and today the temperature has been around 30-33 degrees celsius.
Our accommodation at Moulin de la Ville is set in 5 acres of beautiful woodlands and gardens. Glorious heady weather - days of wine and roses. Perfect weather for not doing too much. Just meandering around from tiny village to tiny village or just lazing in the afternoon sun on the expansive lush green lawn under the tall trees. The stream rippling and the wind gently moving the silver poplar leaves.
There are ducks that wander up in early evening (rescued by the owners of Moulin de la Ville when their mother went missing) and despite much encouragement to return to the wild they keep returning to the coop every night.
We are told there are wild boars nearby, yet to be seen and likewise the deer in the next field.
This is a romantic country, particularly in this region - the light is gentle and there is a painting around every corner. The romance comes through in this lovely language. How much better does it sound to attend a vide grenier instead of a car boot sale! We attended one this morning in the normally very quiet village of Saint Capraise de la Lalinde. The village is situated on the canal de 2 mers which is the continuation of the canal du midi.
We are apt to take lots of back roads and in doing so today we came upon the magical sight of Château de Bannes, high on a hill with goats gamboling on the lower fields. Coincidentally, this is where the son of Sue (Moulin de la Ville) was married with the fairytale wedding continuing with the reception at Moulin de la Ville.
Sunday, 8 June 2014
Day 18: Gourmand's delight
Margot says:
This evening we dined with the owner of Moulin de la Ville, Sue and Steve for what we thought would be a basic barbecue. Upon serving the meal, Steve apologised for the abundance of food - as a chef he prefers to cater well and ensure that his guests appetites are replete.
Later, three of Sue's and Steve's friends from the village (Neil, Sue and their son) joined us and we chatted and laughed long into the night. They live in one of the oldest houses in the village dating back to the 13th century. Sue's and Steve's house (in which we are staying) dates back to 1272! King Edward I founded this village.
This evening we dined with the owner of Moulin de la Ville, Sue and Steve for what we thought would be a basic barbecue. Upon serving the meal, Steve apologised for the abundance of food - as a chef he prefers to cater well and ensure that his guests appetites are replete.
- Goats cheese and tomato salad.
- A green salad.
- Skewers of chicken.
- Pork steaks.
- Beef skewers.
Later, three of Sue's and Steve's friends from the village (Neil, Sue and their son) joined us and we chatted and laughed long into the night. They live in one of the oldest houses in the village dating back to the 13th century. Sue's and Steve's house (in which we are staying) dates back to 1272! King Edward I founded this village.
Day 18: Issigeac Market & the West African Kora player
Catherine says:
Of all the places in the world to find someone playing the kora, here I find a fella in the small mediaeval town of Issigeac (population less than 700).
Saturday, 7 June 2014
Day 17: First night's dinner
Margot says:
This evening our dinner was amazing! Fish, Sicilian style, followed by stuffed chicken breast with a truly great creamy tarragon sauce, followed by a light dessert of chocolate parfait accompanied by a brandy-style basket filled with sliced fruits.
I can't take too much of meals this size every day so tomorrow we have only ordered one course.
Steve is happy for us to watch him at work in his wonderfully equipped kitchen, built to enable him to conduct cooking classes and demonstrations. He is a Michelin star master chef whose interest in cooking was inspired by his grandmother and from the age of 7 he knew he wanted a career as a chef. Sue, on the other hand is an interior designer with a great eye for style and art and this is evidenced throughout the house and garden.
This evening our dinner was amazing! Fish, Sicilian style, followed by stuffed chicken breast with a truly great creamy tarragon sauce, followed by a light dessert of chocolate parfait accompanied by a brandy-style basket filled with sliced fruits.
I can't take too much of meals this size every day so tomorrow we have only ordered one course.
Steve is happy for us to watch him at work in his wonderfully equipped kitchen, built to enable him to conduct cooking classes and demonstrations. He is a Michelin star master chef whose interest in cooking was inspired by his grandmother and from the age of 7 he knew he wanted a career as a chef. Sue, on the other hand is an interior designer with a great eye for style and art and this is evidenced throughout the house and garden.
Day 17: Finally we have arrived at Beaumont-du-Périgord
Catherine says:
Tomasina's maps are out of date. This meant driving around in circles in Pézenas trying to get onto the motorway that would take us out of the city and on our way to Beaumont-du-Périgord in the Dordogne where we will be spending the next week. Round and round the round-a-bout we went before I just decided to take pot luck and ended up driving back towards Puisserguier before I managed to get Tomasina to recalibrate and get us on to an alternative toll route. It worked eventually and then we were on our way.
I won't bore you with the details as to how we got to La Moulin de la Ville in Beaumont-du-Périgord, but of course once we neared our final destination Tomasina's maps were clearly out of date and we ended up running the gauntlet of tiny narrow streets, all one way. I'm starting to tire of her voice: when possible, turn around. The Little Mother simply says: we heard you the first time Tomasina and we're ignoring you. Miraculously we made it here in one piece.
Below is a photograph of The Mater in the garden at La Moulin de la Ville. In case you haven't noticed in all the photographs of her I have posted on this blog she wears that long string of pearls every day, together with all her rings - even the big sapphire one. This goes against all the advice we were given before leaving Australia. But no O'Neil is going to be slumming it in France!
Tomasina's maps are out of date. This meant driving around in circles in Pézenas trying to get onto the motorway that would take us out of the city and on our way to Beaumont-du-Périgord in the Dordogne where we will be spending the next week. Round and round the round-a-bout we went before I just decided to take pot luck and ended up driving back towards Puisserguier before I managed to get Tomasina to recalibrate and get us on to an alternative toll route. It worked eventually and then we were on our way.
I won't bore you with the details as to how we got to La Moulin de la Ville in Beaumont-du-Périgord, but of course once we neared our final destination Tomasina's maps were clearly out of date and we ended up running the gauntlet of tiny narrow streets, all one way. I'm starting to tire of her voice: when possible, turn around. The Little Mother simply says: we heard you the first time Tomasina and we're ignoring you. Miraculously we made it here in one piece.
Below is a photograph of The Mater in the garden at La Moulin de la Ville. In case you haven't noticed in all the photographs of her I have posted on this blog she wears that long string of pearls every day, together with all her rings - even the big sapphire one. This goes against all the advice we were given before leaving Australia. But no O'Neil is going to be slumming it in France!
Day 17: Puisserguier to Beaumont-du-Périgord via Pézenas
Catherine says:
Today's route. Beaumont-du-Périgord via the Pézenas market. Click on the map to enlarge.
Today's route. Beaumont-du-Périgord via the Pézenas market. Click on the map to enlarge.
Friday, 6 June 2014
Day 16: Last day in Puisserguier
Margot says:
Sadly today is our last day in Puisserguier as tomorrow we set off for a week's stay at Moulin de la Ville in Beaumont-du-Périgord.
Leaving here early in the morning, we will detour via Pézenas which has a great Saturday market.
Our final day in this region was spent at a delightful restaurant which was recommended by many, including Bill Caldwell. It is called Auberge de la Croisade and is located just outside of Cruzy on the canal du midi.
We were seated outdoors on a tree covered pergola; the air was warm and suited to a long 5 course luncheon. It was fantastic!
On the way back to Puisserguier, we saw lots of interesting buildings and have taken many photographs. When I can manage to distract Catherine from her crocheting (she found a wool shop yesterday!) perhaps I can arrange for her to upload them.
The weather has been amazing since we have been here. Temperature is between 23 and 27. This weekend is predicted to reach 30. We are even sporting a bit of a tan!
I have picked up a bit of a cold but got the all clear from the doctor yesterday. It was interesting to explain my medical conditions to a basically non-English speaking French doctor, but at least Catherine knew how to say remplacement de la valve aortique and lymphœdème.
To be honest, in her usual overly organised-for-every-potential-disaster fashion, Catherine presented to the doctor a full page of a French translation (with the assistance of Google translate and the Rosetta Stone in her head) of my medical history! I might add the doctor was found for us by our insurance company who gave us the wrong street address and wrong name of the doctor and incorrectly spelt my name on the documentation they sent through to the medical clinic prior to my attendance. In addition, although the insurance company stated the doctor spoke English (this was a specific request of ours due to my complicated medical history), I speak more Swahili than she speaks anglais! Nevertheless, she gave me a thorough check up and sent me home with an almost clean bill of health - I just have a nasty head cold.
We are now well past the half way mark of our trip. I can't believe how quickly it has gone. We have loved every minute of it!
Sadly today is our last day in Puisserguier as tomorrow we set off for a week's stay at Moulin de la Ville in Beaumont-du-Périgord.
Leaving here early in the morning, we will detour via Pézenas which has a great Saturday market.
Our final day in this region was spent at a delightful restaurant which was recommended by many, including Bill Caldwell. It is called Auberge de la Croisade and is located just outside of Cruzy on the canal du midi.
We were seated outdoors on a tree covered pergola; the air was warm and suited to a long 5 course luncheon. It was fantastic!
On the way back to Puisserguier, we saw lots of interesting buildings and have taken many photographs. When I can manage to distract Catherine from her crocheting (she found a wool shop yesterday!) perhaps I can arrange for her to upload them.
The weather has been amazing since we have been here. Temperature is between 23 and 27. This weekend is predicted to reach 30. We are even sporting a bit of a tan!
I have picked up a bit of a cold but got the all clear from the doctor yesterday. It was interesting to explain my medical conditions to a basically non-English speaking French doctor, but at least Catherine knew how to say remplacement de la valve aortique and lymphœdème.
To be honest, in her usual overly organised-for-every-potential-disaster fashion, Catherine presented to the doctor a full page of a French translation (with the assistance of Google translate and the Rosetta Stone in her head) of my medical history! I might add the doctor was found for us by our insurance company who gave us the wrong street address and wrong name of the doctor and incorrectly spelt my name on the documentation they sent through to the medical clinic prior to my attendance. In addition, although the insurance company stated the doctor spoke English (this was a specific request of ours due to my complicated medical history), I speak more Swahili than she speaks anglais! Nevertheless, she gave me a thorough check up and sent me home with an almost clean bill of health - I just have a nasty head cold.
We are now well past the half way mark of our trip. I can't believe how quickly it has gone. We have loved every minute of it!
Wednesday, 4 June 2014
Day 14: The eating continues
Catherine says:
Thank to Bill Caldwell's recommendation to eat at La Galinière, I have now transformed into a profiterole with chestnut creme.
Thank to Bill Caldwell's recommendation to eat at La Galinière, I have now transformed into a profiterole with chestnut creme.
Day 14: You are what you eat... the second transformation
Catherine says:
Sacre bleu!
Now I've just turned into a saucisson sec au bleu d'auvergne!
Sacre bleu!
Now I've just turned into a saucisson sec au bleu d'auvergne!
Day 14: You are what you eat
Catherine says:
You are what you eat. Therefore I am a baguette with mousse de canard.
You are what you eat. Therefore I am a baguette with mousse de canard.
Tuesday, 3 June 2014
Day 13: Another beautiful sunny day in Puisserguier
Margot says:
Today was a prescribed day of rest for Catherine and I acquiesced readily as I have picked up a cold and was happy to be idle.
For lunch we dined on a hearty steak in the village. After, we wandered aimlessly through this delightful town. The majority of the streets are only wide enough for one small car - campervans etc. are certainly a no go!
As you will see from the photos below, houses open directly onto the street but residents manage to find the smallest of spaces to have a few flowers or pots.
The local council add to the colourful landscape with potted petunias everywhere.
As a point of interest there is no rubbish collection. Large enclosed receptacles are dotted throughout the village and resident must deposit their own rubbish here (including separating recyclables).
Today's photos, the usual high standard from Catherine, were actually taken on my newly purchased small digital camera. I had trouble with the battery on my old one so upgraded. As Catherine did not take her usual whizz bang professional camera, she used mine. It just goes to prove that it's not the camera that produces the master shot, but definitely the operator. This is something that Catherine has been telling me for many years as I always blame the camera for my poor photos. As she says, it amazes her that anyone who can produce such beautiful paintings with great composition cannot frame a simple photograph! It's all so easy, she says.
Today was a prescribed day of rest for Catherine and I acquiesced readily as I have picked up a cold and was happy to be idle.
For lunch we dined on a hearty steak in the village. After, we wandered aimlessly through this delightful town. The majority of the streets are only wide enough for one small car - campervans etc. are certainly a no go!
As you will see from the photos below, houses open directly onto the street but residents manage to find the smallest of spaces to have a few flowers or pots.
The local council add to the colourful landscape with potted petunias everywhere.
As a point of interest there is no rubbish collection. Large enclosed receptacles are dotted throughout the village and resident must deposit their own rubbish here (including separating recyclables).
Today's photos, the usual high standard from Catherine, were actually taken on my newly purchased small digital camera. I had trouble with the battery on my old one so upgraded. As Catherine did not take her usual whizz bang professional camera, she used mine. It just goes to prove that it's not the camera that produces the master shot, but definitely the operator. This is something that Catherine has been telling me for many years as I always blame the camera for my poor photos. As she says, it amazes her that anyone who can produce such beautiful paintings with great composition cannot frame a simple photograph! It's all so easy, she says.
Monday, 2 June 2014
Day 12: Another semi-lazy day in sunny Puisserguier
Margot says:
I'm having a great holiday. Catherine is doing everything. She does the driving, communicating in French, the Google mapping, dealing with Tomasina (a.k.a. our GPS TomTom system), the grocery shopping and last night she did a home cooked meal. It was the best pasta sauce you've ever tasted - but of course that was due to the chorizo sausage we bought at Les Halles in Narbonne, nothing to do with her culinary skills!
Oh, and she even does the photography and blogging - I just dictate!
Today we spent two and a half hours in the doctor's surgery waiting room. Catherine used this time productively by writing out her script to read to the female doctor. Prior to departing Australia Catherine was prescribed quite strong antibiotics and cortisone for a respiratory infection which she hasn't quite recovered from so she needed to get it checked out. She was quite pleased with herself as the whole consultation was done in French, so she really is picking up the language quite quickly.
I'm doing quite well too in the language departement, considering the 18 month old toddler in the waiting room kept waving and saying to me au revoir! I understood this! Then she would run to her mother and say maman. I tried to get Catherine to say this too, but at 45 years of age it just wouldn't have had the same effect!
We were quite surprised that the doctor's visit only cost 23 euros! Back at home, our beloved George (as in, Dr Stathakopoulous), charges us AU$75! The bag of prescription medicines we had to come away with was about 40 euros, which is on par with the cost back home.
Catherine needs to take it a bit quiet this week before we leave here on Saturday - next stop Beaumont-du-Périgord. Strangely enough each and every time we mention our next stop, they all laugh and make big fat faces and tell us that we'll be doing nothing but eating. We are staying at a B&B owned by a Michelin star master chef so it looks like we'll be doing exactly that!
Bill Caldwell, of PAS, has given us a few restaurant recommendations in the area surrounding Puisserguier and we'll be doing our best to visit them before we leave for our next gourmet sojourn on Saturday.
Sunday, 1 June 2014
Day 11: Lazy day in Puisserguier
Margot says:
Just what the doctor ordered. Quiet day. Brilliant sunshine. Good book - Charlotte Gray by Sebastian Faulks, the author of Birdsong. Coincidentally enough, Charlotte Gray features the French resistance and much of it is based around the Limoges, Montauban and Clermont-Ferrand areas (picked this book up for a mere 3.50 at the Capestang market this morning!). As usual, when we find a market we seem to come home with lots of food. Home made sausages. Paella. Baguette. We also found a man who made kangourou sausages! I couldn't quite come at eating half of our coat of arms.
Tried a little painting, but as I only have acrylics with me, it was hard going under the hot sun.
My head is full of paintings to do when I get home.
Tomorrow we meet up with Josephine, a local artist. It was timely that the PAS newsletter arrived in my inbox, so I will share that with her.
Olives at the Capestang market
Cheese at the Capestang market
Capestang market flowers
Day 11: Capestang - rocks rock
Catherine says:
Just a few minutes away from Puisserguier is Capestang, an artist haven. My love affair with stone continues.
Day 11: Cute chicks
Catherine says:
What's come over me? All of a sudden I've gone mushy over cute baby animals. Quelle horreure!
This morning, contrary to the agreement that The Mater and I made against doing anything other than laze away the day in the sunshine in the back courtyard, we ventured out to the Capestang market. On the way we deviated from Tomasina's instructions and ventured down some narrow dirt roads and came across this hen and her 3 chicks (one of which is obscured in the background). There was a lot of oohing and aahing. From me. And a lot of cock-a-doodle-doing from the resident coq who was secured behind some fencing.
So, there you go. French chicks have mellowed me.
What's come over me? All of a sudden I've gone mushy over cute baby animals. Quelle horreure!
This morning, contrary to the agreement that The Mater and I made against doing anything other than laze away the day in the sunshine in the back courtyard, we ventured out to the Capestang market. On the way we deviated from Tomasina's instructions and ventured down some narrow dirt roads and came across this hen and her 3 chicks (one of which is obscured in the background). There was a lot of oohing and aahing. From me. And a lot of cock-a-doodle-doing from the resident coq who was secured behind some fencing.
So, there you go. French chicks have mellowed me.
Franglais & Frenglish
Catherine says:
I have a bit of catching up to do on the blog. So much to write about!
The other day, when we took the little boat trip down the canal du midi, the day's agenda was placed on each dining table - it was most obviously translated from the French into English by an online translating tool. I've captured some of it below. It gave me a good giggle. It reminds me a little of Chinglish.
I have a bit of catching up to do on the blog. So much to write about!
The other day, when we took the little boat trip down the canal du midi, the day's agenda was placed on each dining table - it was most obviously translated from the French into English by an online translating tool. I've captured some of it below. It gave me a good giggle. It reminds me a little of Chinglish.
"Here is a delicious moment full of happiness. Enchantment of hearing. Incessant schrill of cicadas and expression of their happiness. Full the heart bucolic cruise, authentic, natural, traditional and friendly. So, if we thought about the following of the day after a well deserved fresh drink, after these initial efforts. Meal while traditions, love of country, honesty and know-how. Our wine makers roots are able to offer the three colour of wine, at discretion. Our culture marked by hospitality wants the coffee is ordered. It's a tradition. Have a good lunch! To follow blessed cruise on the large reach paceful digestion. And a dream of a day of green tourism perfectly accompished. A memory of this unforgettable adventure incorporating the strength of your trip is available on board. A table set a picture with a glass. Exclusive edition ask them to the captain."
Day 10: Via Domitia (Narbonne)
Narbonne was first settled around 113BC. Below is a photograph of an exposed part of the original and first Roman road constructed in Gaul, Via Domitia - it connected Italy to Spain.
Ooh la la
Catherine says:
...capuchon de l'objectif de remplacement sounds oh so much more sexy than replacement lens cap...
Yes, I lost my lens cap for my big Canon wide angle lens. It's somewhere amongst the vegetables at the Narbonne market. Now I need to get a new one. Very annoying.
...capuchon de l'objectif de remplacement sounds oh so much more sexy than replacement lens cap...
Yes, I lost my lens cap for my big Canon wide angle lens. It's somewhere amongst the vegetables at the Narbonne market. Now I need to get a new one. Very annoying.
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